Danish design is known for its clean lines and minimalist forms that combine style with function, typically using natural materials like wood, rather than plastic or steel. But here in the Danish capital, which regularly tops the list of global happiness surveys, there’s more going on than minimalism and new Nordic cuisine.

Copenhagen balances its 1,000-year history – cobblestoned streets, castles, canals and bell towers – with an edgy, effortless cool. One minute you’re walking in a storybook, transported back in time; the next you’re eating a gourmet hot dog from a food truck while listening to a DJ at the Reffen street food market.

It goes beyond that, though, and it’s hard to put into words. The Danes call it hygge, which is the idea of creating a warm atmosphere and enjoying the good things in life with good people. I didn’t quite understand this concept at first. After all, I’ve experienced my share of cold winter evenings in Canada that call for a fireplace and a mug of hot chocolate. But it’s not quite the same thing.

There’s no menu per se; they offer a five-course set meal with wine pairings that changes every couple of weeks. Møller describes their dishes as simple. The beetroot carpaccio with dill flowers, fennel, goat cheese and buckwheat is a “simple” dish, but its flavours are complex. The restaurant is open Thursday through Saturday, and there’s only one seating per night (so there’s no rush to leave).

A decade ago, people didn’t travel to Copenhagen for the food. Now it’s emerging as a culinary capital, with 22 Michelin stars in 17 restaurants – more than any other Scandinavian city – and 10 Bib Gourmand restaurants. Though Noma put Copenhagen on the culinary map after being named best restaurant in the world (four times by the trade publication Restaurant), you don’t need a Michelin star to have an elevated culinary experience in this city.

Uformel, Danish for “informal,” is a perfect example. The sister of Michelin-starred Formel B, it’s dimly lit, with high ceilings and gold walls. The waiters wear their own clothes but, like so many people in this city, manage to look effortlessly stylish.

Synne Larsen, one of two sous-chefs at the restaurant, says the philosophy is about using local produce and then looking out at international flavours. At Uformel, there’s a focus on Danish ingredients but often with Asian flavours, creating dishes such as lamb with homemade kimchee.

Low-key cool in Nørrebro and beyond

The city is best explored on foot or by bike, allowing you to discover unexpected treasures like the fairy-tale Botanical Garden and the romantic canals of Christianshavn. Near the green oasis of Assistens Kirkegård (the cemetery where Hans Christian Andersen is buried), is ultra-modern Superkilen. This urban park with a cycling track, skateboard ramps and artifacts representing more than 60 nationalities (neon signs from Qatar, benches from Armenia) reflects the multicultural nature of the trendy Nørrebro area.

Artisans in residence

Jægersborggade is a street packed with artisan studios, galleries, wine bars, cafés and boutiques, with a Michelin-starred restaurant (Relæ) and the popular Coffee Collective to boot. This is also where Inge Vincents, a ceramics artist, runs her studio and shop. She’s known for her “thinware” ceramics.

While Danish ceramics tend to be thinner than most, Vincents describes her work as “crazy thin, borderline not functional.” She likes to work with porcelain, since it’s the only clay that’s translucent. “I was fascinated with the idea that you can shape something and it illuminates,” she says. “It’s kind of a Scandinavian thing. We like the lightness and the light.”